Everest Base Camp Trek Day 8: Gorak Shep to Pherice


The plan for this day is to start very early with a side trip up to the summit of Kala Patthar before the beginning of the return trip which goes via Pherice.

The weather had changed the previous day and snow had been falling all night. When I got up at 5am it was still snowing outside and was very cold. I went to wash my hands and face and discovered the drum of water for washing had frozen over. Because of this weather, the start of the walk had to be postponed and in the event I didn’t commence the walk to Kala Patthar until after 8am and a very light breakfast.

I was still feeling a bit weak and tired from the lack of sleep and gastro; this combined with the altitude made the walking surprisingly hard work. The incline isn’t that bad but I found myself stopping regularly to get my breath back (I now have some understanding of how climbers on high peaks must feel). In the end I didn’t make it to the top, stopping about two-thirds of the way up as our guide was concerned to leave enough time to get to Pherice. I did take some time to take quite a few photos (including of course of Mt Everest – the photo above is as close as you will get on the trek).

After a quick lunch, the walk to Pherice commenced, retracing our steps from yesterday to Thokla but through a landscape that looked very different thanks to all the snow.

From Thokla a slightly different path is taken that leads to Pherice, a small village in the middle of a windswept plain. Our Tea House here was neat and tidy and I had my first ‘shower’ since Namche Bazaar (actually a large bucket of warm water and a jug) which felt fantastic – it was a bit chilly though running from the out-house to the lodge, past a large pool of ice…

Day 8: Gorak Shep (5140m) to Pherice (4240m) via Kala Patthar (net height loss 900m)
About 6 hours

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Everest Base Camp Trek Day 7: Lobuche to Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp


Day 7 and the day we finally would arrive at Everest Base Camp.

I started a little weary having hardly slept the night before and could barely eat anything at breakfast. Nonetheless, this was the day I’d travelled a long way to experience, so onwards and upwards, in this case alongside the Khumbu Glacier, before dropping down to the frozen lake at the southern foot of Kala Patthar. At 5550m Kala Patthar is a significant mountain on a world scale, but compared to the immediate surroundings is a mere pimple.

From the lake it is a short walk to Gorak Shep, the final village on the trail. We stopped here for a quick lunch before the final pull up to base camp. By this point the weather had started to change, it was much colder, the cloud base was a lot lower and it had started to snow a little. Nevertheless, we pushed on and in about an hour and a half reached our final destination. Visibility had by now reduced considerably, but as it happens this wasn’t really a problem as there is no view of Everest from base camp, which, out of season is just a large ampitheatre of rocks, snow and ice (in season it is festooned with hundreds of tents).

It was a great feeling to have reached base camp, but given the conditions we didn’t hang around for too long and after the obligatory photos set off back to Gorak Shep. I was glad to get back to Gorak Shep for some rest, feeling quite light headed from the altitude and a little weak from the gastro and not eating.

Day 7: Lobuche (4910m) to Gorak Shep (5140m) and Everest Base Camp (5364m) (net height gain 454m)
About 2.5 hours / 4.5 kms to Gorak Shep, another 1.5 hours / 3 kms (one-way) to Base Camp

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